Swiss Italian Fairytale
Photos upper left to right: Verona moments, Milan Pastries & Fashionistas, The Duomo, Lake Como, Maria Sils, Switzerland, Cappella Colleoni Chapel, Bergamo.
This adventure began in Milan, Italy, which I've concluded to be a truly overlooked city. At the very least, it deserves a full day and night to see two of the most extraordinary sites in the world- The Duomo has a stunning interior. However, its best feature requires a visit to the top, as it features some of the most breathtaking, gothic architecture in the world. DaVinci's, The Last Supper, is a must/ do not miss. Seeing the most important fresco ever painted, is a truly "religious" experience. The city is of course chock full of high end designer fashion, but also an array of artistic specialty shops, charming neighborhoods, which are very walkable, and like any Italian city, elegant architecture painted in hues of peach, ochre and terra cotta only to be found in Italy. A stay at The Carlton- a Rocco Forte hotel, is a truly exceptional, warm and welcoming experience from the moment you arrive. Their properties, professionalism and service, in addition to design, are always top notch and this one is no exception. If you want to fully embrace the Milanese pulse, go during fashion week or the Grand Prix.
Andiamo!
Our next stop was spectacular, Lake Como, with its jagged coastal edges, lined by stunning Italian Palazzi and its many charming towns, including Bellagio, where we stayed. When we arrived at our hotel, it was clear that not many guests had arrived by way of their own rental car, which at the very end of an arduous drive, entailed navigating down a narrow alley covered in tourists, who stood in front of and around our car like a bunch of donkeys. After all of the speeding, switch backs, incessant tunnels, and crazy cyclists, I was ready for an aperitivo. A ride around the lake on a classic boat is a must and a highlight. We swam in the lake in a calm, little cove, as we looked at the back entrance of one of the most gorgeous Palazzo on the lake ( which happened to be featured in a scene of one of my favorite shows, "Succession"). If you wish to tour any of these homes and their exquisite gardens you must purchase tickets far in advance. The lake is very large, so choosing the area in which you wish to spend most of your time is important. Getting around the lake to visit different towns is best via water taxis, as it saves a lot of time and driving around the lake is far from easy or relaxing.
From the lake, you look directly at the dramatic peaks which connect Italy to Switzerland - our next destination. I always find it remarkable and exciting that you can drive a short distance and be in a different country with such a drastically different culture, language, and cuisine. That is one of the things that made this itinerary so appealing in addition to the variety and drives ( none of which were very long). The temperature drop from the high nineties to mid seventies was a welcome relief. The moment we entered Switzerland, we were greeted by enormous cows, adorned with bells around their necks as they grazed upon the hillsides. The chalets in the Upper Engadine are by far the most beautiful as they feature "Sgraffito"- a Renaissance technique where designs are etched into the plaster of the buildings. These exquisite buildings are a very special feature of this area and less discussed than the area's natural beauty and scenery. The dramatic, towering mountains soar straight up from turquoise lakes. There are many pristine and well preserved towns to visit. Did you know that in Switzerland they not only speak German, Italian and French, but also the lesser known Romansh, dating back to 15 B.C ( only spoken by 50-70,000 people)...a very interesting mix of Latin, Celtic and German. In the mood for some physical activity? This is your place. There is any and everything for the great outdoorsman, whether that's: biking, hiking, sailing, kayaking, fly fishing... ( and that is only the summer list). Switzerland could not be more family friendly as a country. Even the glitzy town of St. Moritz- a playground of vintage cars, shopping and furry boots, has playgrounds, festivals, and tons of activities that cater to the entire family.
After evenings of divine Gruyere fondue ( it's okay it dips down to a crisp 55 degrees at night), Wienerschnitzel, and even a bottle of exquisite Swiss wine from just outside of Geneva, we bid Chau ( goodbye in Romansh) to our Alpine relaxation and headed back to Italy. Verona was our next stop and another reason that flying to Milan is so worth while. Verona, also just an hour from Venice, has a spectacular ancient amphitheater which houses an annual Opera festival every summer. We were lucky to watch Puccini's "Turnadot" and attend such a special, international event where passionate "buffs" flew from far and wide to attend. I knew nothing about shopping there but the town is filled with exceptional shops from known designer to speciality boutiques and a few of the best high end vintage shops I have seen anywhere. We stayed at a hotel just outside the center and has a shuttle into the center of town. This location provides a lovely respite with its lush gardens and pool, which was much needed in that Italian, summer heat. The hotel is a giant art installation, which feels like a stately villa on an acid trip, whilst listening to Iggy Pop. I loved the contrast of elegant, old world Verona and this kooky, fun hotel which incidentally made one of my favorite aperitivi- their lavender twist on a classic Paloma.
Last, but certainly not least, was our stop on way back to Milan. Bergamo is an UNESCO- listed, Baroque city, which features a picturesque, elegant square, one of the most gorgeous Romanesque chapels in the world, exceptional galleries featuring Botticelli paintings and adorable alleys, in which tourists meander. The city is lined by a 6km Venetian wall and has a funicular which connects the lower more "modern" city to the upper/ older part, if you do not wish to drive. However, driving was easy and there is a massive public lot in the center of the old town. Fun fact: Stracciatella ice cream was invented in this city in 1961. If you want to get the full Bergamo experience, walk around the gardens of the Terzi Palace or Villa Moroni and you may just hear Vivaldi playing in the background. We did.
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