By crook or by Hook...

By crook or by hook, the honey colored stone, storybook towns and the best wools in Europe thee shall findeth h're. And the gardens… well there’s nothing more beautiful than the gardens in the Cotswolds.

Only one and a half hours northeast of London, its worthy of all of its poetic verses, describing its golden light, inspiring writers, artists, poets and film crews for good reason. After years of longing to visit this place (and a justifiable fear of driving on the opposite side of the road), I finally made it to the bucolic Cotswolds. This area was exactly as I pictured- green, romantic, historic, charming and dotted with more sheep, cheese shops and dog lovers than I've seen anywhere else in the world. Our first stop was Oxford -a stop I highly recommend, if even for a few hours. It’s special to walk through the town and in and out of several of the colleges. Most of the main sights are within a couple miles and easily walkable. King’s College and Christ Church are a couple of the most visited amongst the forty-three colleges in total. Class was in session during our visit, which made for the most authentic experience. Just a stroll in this illustrious, intellectual town is sure to boost your IQ several points. If you love Harry Potter, you’ll recognize the architecture of many of the exteriors and interiors. It appeared that many tourists were there because of the book serious vs. its reputation as one of the most  prestigious university’s in the world. 

I chose to base us in the town of Broadway, which after seeing many towns in the area, I concluded was one of the most elegant and extremely well located as a central base for the towns at the top of our list. The illustrious Lygon Arms hotel is on high street along with more elegant and less touristy shops, but most impressive were the residential streets just up the hill which had some of the most spectacular homes and views in the area. Get a higher viewpoint from the Broadway tower. I was set on doing a Falconry experience as I had read about the Batsford Arboretum about fifteen minutes from our hotel. While we did not do the private version ( when the birds land on “your” arm), we watched  a demonstration which takes place three times a day and was the furthest thing from touristy. I’m happy to report the property, which spans fifty-five acres, is one of the largest private collections of trees and shrubs in the UK ... and was spectacular. The property houses over one hundred and fifty species of “birds of prey”, many of which are owls, which have now become one of my favorite animals. 

Each day we visited three to five towns, some of which are so tiny you could see them in twenty minutes. Others, like Stow on the Wold or Bourton on the Water ( too crowded for me) can occupy you for longer, given all of the shops, restaurants, bars, tea rooms etc. Highlight towns for me were the Upper and Lower Slaughter, which has the loveliest walk connecting the two and is a “must do.” To really feel the Cotswolds you have to walk away from the commercialism and be in nature. At the end of our walk, we came across the most elegant Lords of the Manor hotel. Beautifully dressed guests and locals sipped wine and tea on the front and back lawns surrounded by the most beautiful gardens-a perfect way to end a day of sightseeing.

Bibury and Burford, which have no shops or commercialism, were two of the most picturesque of all of the towns. The road that connects the two is indescribably romantic with an old church and cemetery just beside the road. Take that little drive and you’ll feel just like Cameron Diaz on her way to see Jude Law.

While the food is nothing special in this area, the cheese certainly is. A picnic is the perfect idea for one of the days you spend if you can be spontaneous and happen to get lucky enough to encounter a sunny warm day, pop in one of the many little gourmet shops to grab some local cheese, bread, scones and wine. Your biggest problem will be deciding in which field of yellow tulips or in which rose garden to set up and "dejeuner sur l'herbe”. In spring flowers cover the hillsides like a blanket of sunshine and may just put our mustard flowers of the Napa Valley to shame. If you love Lady Whistledown’s wisteria laced entrance, make sure to visit the Cotswolds in spring. 

Summer is packed with so many people and cars, you won’t begin to get this experience (or these flowers…which are a highlight). However, there is no time of year that won’t knock your woolen socks off, so whether you prefer a scone or a crumpet, grab your best mate, your pretty lass or just your old self and head to “the heart of England” for some cask ale, some smashed peas on a “toastie” and of course a spot of tea. You mustn't fret if the idea of driving on the left side of the car and road has zero appeal. There are trains and buses that run from central London to several towns in the Cotswolds. You won't get to all of the gems without a car but most hotels offer car services, taxis and ubers are also available.

This trip is a perfect romantic getaway, with friends or for those with kids, there are endless family friendly activities that everyone can enjoy together.

“…My road is coming to an end - beautiful as it may be. Cotswold stone replaced by daffodils and blossom trees. Wide pavements give a feeling of peace and space. I see a lady jogging with her hair out of place, the postman putting mail through a door. Wonder if it’s important, wonder who it’s for? And, as the sun comes up, I close my eyes and smile, dreaming of driving through the Cotswolds 

mile after mile.”  

JJ Evandon